Between the Japanese Alps and the shores of the Sea of Japan, two medieval fortresses guard secrets that defy time. This is a journey to their black walls, their samurai ghosts, and the legends still whispered in their hidden passageways.
Matsumoto-jō: The Crow Castle (Karasu-jō)
The Last Stronghold of the Sengoku Period
Built in 1504 by the Ogasawara clan, Matsumoto Castle is an architectural rarity: a hirajiro (plains castle) surrounded not by mountains, but by swamps. Its six stories of blackened wood—stained with charcoal to resist fire—earned it the nickname “Black Crow”.
In 1615, when the Tokugawa shogunate decreed the One Castle per Province Law, Matsumoto survived due to its strategic value. Its musha-gaeshi (curved walls) slanted at 45 degrees deflected arrows, while the tsukimi-yagura (moon-viewing tower) served as a tea room for warlords plotting betrayals.
The Curse of the Cursed Tower
The most persistent legend speaks of the Tenshu (main keep):
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In 1638, daimyo Matsudaira Naomasa ordered the execution of 38 peasants who rebelled against taxes. Their heads were displayed on the battlements.
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Since then, night guards swear they hear 38 ghostly footsteps climbing the wooden stairs during full moons.
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In 1868, a shogunate-loyal samurai committed seppuku in the northeast tower. Visitors report seeing his katana-wielding silhouette at dawn.
The castle hides another mystery: beneath its foundations lies a secret well that, according to Edo-period chronicles, “never dries, even in droughts”. Recent excavations revealed tunnels possibly leading to a hidden temple.
Matsue-jō: The White Heron Castle (Shirasagi-jō)
The Ghost of the Lord Without a Body
Completed in 1611 by daimyo Horio Yoshiharu, Matsue-jō is one of twelve original surviving castles in Japan. Its curved roofs mimic a heron’s wings in flight—a design meant to appear light despite 6-meter-thick stone walls.
But its beauty conceals a historical drama:
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In 1637, Lord Matsudaira Naomasa (yes, the same from Matsumoto) died mysteriously. His body was never found; only his empty armor appeared on the castle altar.
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Every November 10th (the date of his death), the Shiomi-nawate moat reveals geta (wooden sandal) footprints emerging from the water and entering the castle. Local fishermen call this phenomenon “The Walk of the Shadowless Lord”.
The Secret of Tea and the Ninja Tunnels
Matsue was home to Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo), the Greek-Irish writer who documented its legends. His notes describe:
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A network of nobori-ishigaki (hidden stone stairways) used by Iga clan ninja to spy on the daimyo.
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The tea ceremony in the Jōzan room included three empty cups to honor ancestors. Servants swore that sometimes one would fill by itself.
Today, guides point to a tetsubashira (iron pillar) at the entrance: striking it produces a metallic sound said to repel yūrei (ghosts).
Two Fortresses, One Destiny
Both castles survived bombings, earthquakes, and Meiji-era demolition orders. Matsumoto was saved in 1872 by a local schoolteacher who bought it for 230 yen (about €1.50 today). Matsue escaped destruction because its main tower was used as a rice warehouse.
Now, when mist settles over their moats at dusk, tourists sometimes capture photos showing an armored figure reflected in the water. Historians blame tricks of light. Elderly locals smile: “The castle lords never left. They’re just waiting for their moment.”
